SHITCREW fucks your burn 🍄

Pick a character

Every cubicle is the same cheap flat-pack box. The character is just one extra ply sheet (a false front) cut to shape and screwed onto the front wall. You can mix a whole village and swap the fronts each year.

Vent cut-outs go on the sides, and on the front of the classic & chalet designs.

Sheet layout (one cubicle)

Side walls are raked (2400 at the front → 2100 at the back). Each raked offcut becomes a roof gusset. The floor sheet's spare half makes the pedestal box.

Pedestal box & bucket (section)

Wall framing (dwangs / nogs)

The inside face of each wall, with studs at 600 centres and dwangs at 600, 1200 and 1800. The orange dwangs are the extras that carry fittings. The door leaf gets a Z-brace so it doesn't sag.

🚜 Moving by tractor

• Empty it first: take the bucket out, cap the urine container, unhook the vent cowl if it's tall, and latch the door and hatch shut. Nobody rides inside.
• Two-leg chain bridle from both tow eyes at one end to a ring on the drawbar. Keep the legs roughly equal, so it pulls straight and doesn't twist the box.
• Walking pace, straight lines, wide turns. Have a spotter walk beside it. Stop for ruts and hump the skids over them slowly.
• Or lift it: pallet forks go between and under the skids (the 150 mm depth gives fork clearance), with a strap over the roof to the loader.
• Tall fronts (rocket, castle flag, DoBro ring-pull) catch branches and wind. Unbolt the flag and keep the speed down.
• Afterwards, check that the corner bolts, floor bolts and roof screws are tight and that the door still closes square.

Toilet rules sign (inside)

1. Sit down, everyone (even for a wee). It keeps the wee in the front bowl.
2. After a poo: 1 scoop of sawdust to cover it completely.
3. Paper is fine. Nothing else: no wipes, pads, tampons, nappies, rubbish, cleaning sprays or water.
4. Lid down, door shut, wash your hands.

Cheap fun extras

• A chalkboard-paint panel inside the door, with chalk on a string, as a guestbook or graffiti wall.
• An engaged/vacant spinner: a ply disc on a bolt with 😊 / 😬 faces.
• Label the sawdust bin "Magic Dust" or "Poo Glitter". People use it more.
• A mirror with "you look great today" painted above it.
• A tiny shelf with a succulent or a jar of festival flowers.
• A "Poo-etry" corner: a laminated sheet of jokes or short poems, changed daily.
• A sign about the worm farm: "Your donation feeds 10,000 worms 🪱". People love knowing where it goes.
• Name every cubicle (🎲 above) so people can say "meet at the rocket".

Hand-wash station

Plan (from above)

The pan sits in one corner with the grab rail wall beside it. The door slides open onto the big clear side, so a wheelchair rolls straight into the transfer space.

Rail wall (elevation)

This is the left wall, seen from inside. The rails need solid timber behind them, because ply alone will tear out.

Inside the cubicle

• Pedestal box: the same bucket box as the standard loo, built so the seat top is 460 mm above the floor (with a 50 L bucket, make the box taller or sit the bucket in a recess). Put the front edge of the seat 700–750 mm from the back wall and the centreline 450 mm from the rail wall. Fit a lid and a backrest (a padded board on the box or the back wall), since there's no cistern to lean on.
• L-shaped grab rail on the side wall: the horizontal part at 700 mm, the vertical part 150–250 mm in front of the seat, up to about 1500 mm.
• Optional fold-down rail on the open side of the pan, fixed to the back wall. It helps people who push up with both arms, and folds out of the way for side transfers.
• Transfer space: keep at least 850 mm beside the pan completely clear: no bins, no sawdust bucket, no shelves on the floor.
• Within reach of the seat: toilet paper on the rail wall at about 700 mm, a little in front of the seat. Put the sawdust bin on a 750 mm shelf on the back wall on the open side, with a long-handled scoop. Put sanitiser and a sanitary bin on the rail wall.
• Door: a sliding "barn" door on an outside track, light enough to move with one finger. Fit a long horizontal pull rail on the inside at 900 mm, D-pulls outside, and a lever or large-knob lock you can work with a closed fist. Mark it with a clear engaged/vacant indicator.
• Help cord: a red cord hanging to 100 mm above the floor and running to a loud bell or buzzer outside, with a sign saying who responds (the nearest camp or the medics).
• Hooks at 1200 mm and 1600 mm, a mirror from 900 mm up, a motion-sensing solar light, and contrasting colours on the rails, seat and door edge for low-vision users.
• Floor: anti-slip paint, no step at the door (threshold under 10 mm), and a drop of grit in the paint.
• The bucket hatch stays in the back wall, so crew never need to go inside.
• Frame and base: the walls are framed like the standard cubicle (studs at 600, dwangs at 600/1200/1800) plus the rail dwangs. It sits on three 150 × 100 H5 skids, 3.0 m long, with chamfered ends and tow eyes at both ends, so a tractor can move it like the others. Unhook the ramp modules and the landing first, because they lift off their hinges.

🩼 Ambulant upgrade (crutches, walking frames)

Lots of people who use crutches or a stick don't need a wheelchair-size loo, but they do need something to hold on to. Convert about 1 in 4 of the standard cubicles:

• Horizontal grab rails on both side walls at about 800 mm, running from 200 mm behind the seat front to 400 mm in front of it, with solid timber behind them.
• Seat height 460–480 mm, with a backrest.
• The door opens outward (so it can't trap someone who falls) and has a pull rail on the inside.
• Fit a short ramp or one low, wide step (under 150 mm) with a rail, rather than a high step-up.
• Give them a different door sign, e.g. "🩼 rails inside", so people can find them.

Rails that won't let anyone down

• Grab rails must carry 1.1 kN (about 110 kg) in any direction. Use 32–38 mm stainless or galvanised tube, set 50 mm off the wall.
• Behind every rail, add 90 × 45 dwangs (horizontal blocking) at rail height inside the wall frame, and through-bolt the rail flanges with M8 bolts and large washers. Don't use screws into 12 mm ply alone.
• Test each rail by hanging your full weight off it before the event, and again every morning.

The washer drum (keg-washer style)

• Splash drum: a 200 L blue drum cut down to about 650 mm high. The bucket (Ø 400, 450 high) drops inside with room to spare. Fit a hinged ply lid with a rubber seal and a handle, and close it before every blast so no spray or aerosol escapes.
• Bucket grid: a stainless BBQ grill or 25 mm galvanised mesh on three bolts, 150 mm above the drum floor, with a ring of offcut timber to centre the bucket over the nozzle.
• Spray head: a 360° rotating tank-cleaning nozzle (the kind used for kegs and drums) on a short rigid extension lance. It comes up through a sealed bulkhead in the drum floor, sitting about 100 mm inside the bucket mouth.
• Drain: a 100 mm DWV outlet at the lowest point of the drum floor, with the floor packed to fall towards it. Use no strainer: you want the solids to keep moving to the IBC.
• Stand: 90 × 45 H3.2 frame with the drum top at about 1000 mm, so the bucket lifts in at waist height. A plywood slab around the top catches drips.
• Hands-off control: keep the Kärcher trigger gun zip-tied open (the lance is fixed). Fit a high-pressure ball valve (rated ≥ 200 bar) in the line, with a ply foot pedal on a hinge that pushes its lever. Closing the valve makes a Kärcher's total-stop system stop the pump, just like letting go of the trigger. Check that your model has total-stop before relying on it.

Plumbing the Kärcher

• Water in (running water): run a garden hose from the tap to the Kärcher's inlet, with a dual-check backflow valve at the tap so wash water can never siphon back into the supply, and an inline filter. Turn the tap fully on: the Kärcher needs a steady flow. No running water there? Feed it from a clean-water IBC raised on a pallet instead. Kärcher K-series machines can draw from a tank using their suction hose kit with filter. The tank being higher helps the pump prime.
• High pressure out: Kärcher gun → (zip-tied open) → Kärcher-to-M22 or ¼" quick-connect adaptor → high-pressure ball valve on the pedal → short extension → rotating nozzle. Buy the adaptor to match your model's gun connector (K-series guns use Kärcher's own click fitting).
• Power: run it through an RCD, and put the machine on a shelf under a little roof, away from the drum and above any splash. Keep the lead off the wet ground.
• Hot water helps but isn't needed. A squirt of biodegradable cleaner in the bucket before it goes in loosens stuck sawdust.

The waste IBC

• A 1000 L IBC (ex-food or water only, never chemicals) on a level, firm base. Its top inlet must sit below the drum drain, with at least a 1:20 fall on the 100 mm pipe. The drum drains at about 350 mm and an IBC stands about 1160 mm tall, so on flat ground it won't drain. Choose one: (1) put the station at the top of a bank so the IBC sits about 1 m lower (best: the bottom valve stays easy to reach); (2) sit the IBC in a pit about 1 m deep (ask the farm, and backfill afterwards: Leave No Trace); or (3) use a smaller, low tank. The calculator checks the height.
• If the IBC sits in a pit, the truck can just suck out through the lid with its wand, so the bottom valve isn't needed.
• Optional pump (last resort). ⚠️ Wood shavings and sawdust will block most pumps and small hoses, so only use this if none of the no-pump plans fit. If you do, pick a cutter/grinder (macerator) sewage pump, keep a coarse basket screen you can lift out and empty, and keep a spare pump on site. Flat ground? Use a catchment tub and pump. This is the easiest option when there's no slope. The drum drains a short way into a low catchment tub (a 90 L mortar tub or a cut-down drum about 250–300 mm tall) sitting on the ground under the drum outlet. A submersible dirty-water pump with a float switch sits in the tub: it switches on when the tub fills and lifts the waste up a hose into the IBC lid, which can sit on the same ground. There's no handling and no lifting.
• Pump choice: it must be a dirty-water or effluent pump rated for solids of at least 25–35 mm (vortex impeller), never a clear-water pump. Fit a non-return valve on the outlet so the hose doesn't drain back. Use 40–50 mm hose, keep the run short, and clip the outlet into the IBC lid so it can't jump out. Power it from the same RCD as the Kärcher.
• Put a lid with a hole for the pipe and hose on the tub, check the float isn't snagged each morning, and keep a high-level mark on the IBC, because the pump will happily keep filling a full IBC.
• Inlet: a 100 mm hole cut in the top lid with a tank fitting. Add a vent pipe with fly mesh, and screw the lid tight (flies and smell).
• Outlet: the IBC's 2" (DN50) bottom valve → a 2" camlock (type A or F) → a camlock reducer to the truck's size. Ask your pump-out contractor what size they use, usually 3" or 4" camlock, and keep the matching dust cap on.
• Put it within the truck's hose reach of a track the truck can drive on in the wet. Ask them the hose length (often 20–30 m).
• Mark a fill scale on the side every 100 L with a paint pen, and check it every morning.

🛒 Shopping list & where to get it

Prices are rough NZD guesses, so confirm them in store. The stores are on the Kitchen sand trap tab. A Kärcher service agent or outdoor power shop in Palmy can match the gun adaptor, and some stock rotary drum-cleaning nozzles.

Design

• Lined timber bays, raised on concrete blocks, about 600 mm of bedding depth. Bay size and count come from the Planner.
• Timber: use untreated macrocarpa (or other untreated timber) wherever wood touches bedding. CCA/ACQ-treated pine leaches copper and arsenic that harm worms and end up in the compost. Treated H4 timber is fine for the legs and the outer frame outside the liner.
• Liner: 250 µm black polythene or pond liner, stapled to the inside walls. The floor falls 1:50 to a 20 mm tank outlet + tap at one corner. Leachate is collected, not let into the soil. That matters with human waste.
• Drainage layer: 50 mm of coarse wood chip, with shade cloth on top so bedding doesn't block it.
• Lid: 12 mm ply with 50 mm polystyrene glued underneath. It keeps out rain and frost in winter and heat in summer. Hinge it at the back, and fit a prop stick and a fly-meshed vent slot.
• Rodent proofing: fit 6 mm galvanised mesh over vents, and keep the lid tight-fitting.
• Site: full or afternoon shade (under deciduous trees is ideal: shade in summer, sun in winter). Keep it out of hollows that flood and sheltered from the prevailing westerly. Allow at least 20 m from streams/drains and 50 m from bores (confirm with Horizons).

Worms

• Tiger worms (Eisenia fetida) and red worms (Lumbricus rubellus / Dendrobaena), sold by NZ worm farms by the kg. Garden earthworms won't live in compost.
• Start the beds at least 3 months before the first festival on aged horse/cow manure + shredded cardboard. The population roughly doubles every 2–3 months in good conditions.
• Stock at about 1 kg/m² minimum (2 kg/m² is better). The Planner shows how much to buy.
• Ideal conditions: 15–25 °C, as moist as a wrung-out sponge, pH 6.5–7.5, dark, and plenty of air.
• Year-round food: aged horse or cow manure (never from animals drenched in the last 4–6 weeks, because ivermectin-type dewormers in dung kill worms), cardboard, leaves, coffee grounds, and festival food scraps (no meat, dairy, citrus, onion or oil).

Inside the barrel (top → bottom)

1. Lid: the drum's clamp lid, or ply with fly mesh. It keeps rain, kids, dogs and flies out.
2. Side inlet at 780 mm: a 65 mm tank-outlet fitting in the side wall, about 80 mm above the chip, so the pipe doesn't need to climb over the lid.
3. Splash plate: a paver or tile on the chip under the inlet, so the stream doesn't dig a hole in it.
4. Untreated wood chip or bark, 100 mm: the "sacrificial" layer. It catches the fat and food. Rake it daily and swap it when it goes slimy.
5. Shade cloth or geotextile disc: lets you lift the chip off without taking the sand with it.
6. Coarse washed sand, 400 mm: concrete or "plasterer's coarse" sand. Not fine builder's sand, and not beach sand (salt).
7. Pea gravel 7–10 mm, 100 mm: stops sand washing into the gravel below.
8. Drainage gravel 20 mm, 100 mm: around the outlet fitting.
9. Outlet: a 50 mm tank outlet (bulkhead) fitting, 50 mm above the drum floor, into the slotted coil.

Build steps

1. Pick a sturdy tree downhill of the kitchen, at least 20 m from any stream, drain or water trough, and away from where people camp or walk. Without burial, the only thing that makes the water flow is height: the sink outlet has to end up higher than the barrel's side inlet (plinth + 780 mm), plus the fall. Use the calculator. On flat ground, raise the sink bench or choose a tree further downhill.
2. Drill the barrel side with a hole saw: the 50 mm outlet 50 mm up from the floor on the downhill side, and the 65 mm inlet 780 mm up on the kitchen side. Fit both tank outlets with their seals and silicone them. Fill it with water to check it doesn't leak.
3. Make a level plinth right against the tree from 2–4 pavers on compacted gravel. A full barrel weighs around 300 kg, so check it with a spirit level both ways. Dig the trench starting about 1 m from the barrel and leading away from the tree (to spare the big roots) across the paddock along the contour. Make it 450 mm wide with an almost level floor (a slight fall away is fine), so it spreads the water along its full length.
4. Stand the empty barrel on the plinth and strap it to the tree with two ratchet straps (about ¼ and ⅔ of the way up). Put carpet offcuts or rubber between the straps and the bark so you don't ring-bark the tree. A full barrel that tips over is 300 kg of wet sand, so pull the straps tight. Push the slotted, socked coil onto the outlet, let it curve down into the trench, and lay it on 100 mm of gravel. Cover it with 200 mm more gravel and shade cloth, then put the soil and turf back. Cap the far end.
5. Fill the barrel with the layers above. Re-tension the straps once it's full and wet, because the load settles.
6. At the sink, fit the basket strainer waste and the 40 mm trap. Use the adaptor to go onto the unslotted coil. Run it to the barrel's side inlet with a steady fall and no dips. Peg the coil every metre so it can't sag.
7. Test: pour 3 buckets of water down the sink. It should drain freely, nothing should pond above the chip after a few minutes, and the trench end should stay dry on top.

After the festival

• Let the barrel drain for a day, then lift off the chip layer and the top 50 mm of sand and add them to the toilet holding bay or a hot compost heap. Never put them in the worm beds directly, because of the fat.
• Leave No Trace: scoop out the rest of the chip and sand (bag the clean sand to reuse next year), loosen and remove the straps and padding so the tree isn't harmed, and take the barrel and pavers away. Either lift the trench coil and backfill, or leave it in place if the farm owner agrees, with a waratah marking the line so nobody drives over it.
• Replace all the sand every 2–3 years, or sooner if it drains slowly.

📋 Coordination

People, planning, communication, volunteer coordination and administrative systems that keep Sanitation organised.

Capabilities: strong organisational and administrative capability, including volunteer coordination, communication, rostering, record keeping, documentation, managing competing priorities and putting systems in place that help the wider team operate effectively.

🛠️ Logistics

Site logistics, Build and Packdown coordination, physical setup, contractor/site requirements and practical delivery of Sanitation assets.

Capabilities: practical hands-on capability, such as experience with building, repairs, DIY, tools, site work or similar environments; confidence assessing what materials, equipment and practical support are needed to complete physical tasks safely and effectively.

🪱 Stewardship

Care, safe use, maintenance and development of Sanitation assets, composting systems and related resources.

Capabilities: knowledge or experience relevant to composting, worm farming, waste systems, compostable toilets, environmental management or related areas. A person taking primary ownership of specialist Stewardship systems must either already hold the necessary knowledge or be willing and able to independently develop it, including seeking reliable external guidance where required.

⚙️ Operations

Systems, training, knowledge sharing and operational processes required to deliver Sanitation services effectively during the event.

Capabilities: strong planning, process-development, knowledge-sharing and people-management capability, ideally with experience in event operations, logistics, training, volunteer coordination or similar environments. This area requires the ability to turn operational knowledge into clear procedures, training and workable systems.

How are the responsibilities shared?

The Co-Lead team agrees how responsibilities are distributed each year. Each area should have clear ownership, appropriate cover and enough documentation for another Co-Lead to maintain continuity when the primary owner is unavailable.

Co-Leads are expected to maintain enough understanding of the wider Sanitation operation to provide continuity and cover where appropriate. Providing cover may include following documented plans, coordinating routine tasks, maintaining communications, supporting volunteers and escalating issues appropriately. It does not require a Co-Lead to undertake specialist or technical work outside their knowledge, training or competence.

Where a responsibility requires specialist knowledge or judgement, it should only be transferred to another Co-Lead who has, or has developed, the appropriate capability. If specialist expertise is unavailable within Sanitation, the covering Co-Lead should follow documented escalation pathways and seek support from the relevant Kiwiburn team where available.

All Co-Leads are expected to keep the procedures, plans, contacts and escalation pathways for the areas they primarily own clear and current so that routine work can continue without relying on one person's memory or availability.

What does this role entail?

As a Sanitation Co-Lead, you will:

• Lead and support the Sanitation team in achieving its goals for the annual Kiwiburn event.
• Work collaboratively with the other Sanitation Co-Leads, with equal standing in team leadership and decision-making.
• Take primary responsibility for agreed areas of work while maintaining awareness of wider Sanitation activities.
• Collectively ensure that all critical Sanitation functions have clear ownership and adequate cover, including when an individual Co-Lead is unavailable.
• Keep the other Co-Leads informed of decisions, changes, risks or dependencies that may affect the wider Sanitation operation.
• Support or provide cover for other Co-Leads where appropriate, using shared documentation, established procedures and team knowledge to maintain continuity.
• Maintain clear, current and usable documentation for the areas you primarily own, including procedures, plans, task information, relevant contacts and escalation pathways.
• Identify activities that require specialist knowledge or judgement and make sure their safety requirements, limits and escalation pathways are clearly understood and documented.
• Participate in team planning, volunteer selection, event readiness and post-event review.
• Recruit, support and communicate with Sanitation volunteers and help create an inclusive, welcoming and well-organised volunteer experience.
• Communicate and consult with your team and wider Kiwiburn teams, as appropriate, on key decisions that affect them, and feed back to the Infrastructure Facilitator where required.
• Help identify opportunities to improve Sanitation systems, assets, volunteer processes, documentation and event delivery.
• Participate in the shared event Duty Lead/on-call roster, providing operational leadership and escalation support during agreed periods.
• Contribute to the annual Sanitation Afterburn report and post-event review.
• Assist in creating a collaborative and inclusive team culture where people are inspired to contribute and make a difference for the Kiwiburn community.

People, Planning & Administration

Job purpose: own the people and administrative systems required to recruit, organise and retain the Sanitation team, ensuring volunteer applications, communications, rostering, records and planning processes remain organised and responsive throughout the year.

Managing documentation, coordination, applications, communications, the roster and Portal are all assessed as High workload, concentrated across September–January.

Event contribution: this person still rotates through Duty Lead coverage, participates in training and can act operationally onsite. The role should never become office-centric with no paddock understanding/experience.

Build & Site Logistics

Job purpose: lead Sanitation's physical Build and site logistics programme, ensuring toilets, Sanitation-owned physical assets and site facilities are positioned, prepared, functional and ready before the event. This role coordinates closely with Infrastructure, Plumbing, Town Planning, contractors and the other Sanitation Co-Leads where specialist or cross-department support is required.

The workload profile is very concentrated. Build volunteer supervision is rated as Very High workload, with portaloo deployment, menstruation-station setup and toilet placement also carrying significant Build-period workload. Significant Build and Packdown contributions will be taken into account when allocating Duty Lead coverage during the Burn.

Compost, Assets & Stewardship

Job purpose: maintain the long-term health, safety and functionality of Sanitation's composting systems and physical assets, with particular responsibility for the worm farm, compostable toilets, working bees and year-round asset stewardship.

This role also carries specialist event-readiness responsibilities such as compost training and safe handling procedures.

Event Operations & Logistics

Job purpose: design and coordinate Sanitation's event operating system so that Shift Leads and volunteers can run routine sanitation services independently, with Co-Leads required primarily for exceptions, escalations and higher-level decisions.

This role must own the operating system, not personally operate everything. The Event Operations Co-Lead is responsible for designing, maintaining and coordinating these systems; routine delivery should be delegated to trained Shift Leads, volunteers and the current Duty Lead wherever appropriate. The Event Operating Plan and Duty Lead coverage are both high-intensity responsibilities, with the operational workload peaking in the final planning period, during the Burn and into Packdown.

What shared experience and qualities are needed?

• Strong communication and collaboration skills, with the ability to work constructively as part of a shared leadership team.
• Comfortable taking ownership of agreed responsibilities while keeping others informed and asking for support where required.
• Good organisational, planning and problem-solving skills.
• Able to manage changing priorities and make practical decisions in a busy volunteer environment.
• Project and time management skills for yourself and the people or projects you support.
• Willingness to learn about the wider Sanitation operation, follow established procedures and provide appropriate cover outside your usual focus area when required.
• Comfortable working with volunteers with different levels of experience, confidence and availability.
• Aware and proactive in managing your own capacity, including communicating early when workload or life commitments affect your ability to deliver.
• Comfortable learning and using systems such as Google Drive, Slack and Kiwiburn Portal, as well as other volunteer/rostering tools, with regular access to a computer and internet.
• Available and responsive regularly year-round via email and Slack, or able to ensure there is adequate cover when unavailable.
• Willing to work collaboratively with Infrastructure and other Kiwiburn departments.
• Understanding of Te Tiriti o Waitangi (Treaty of Waitangi) and how it relates to the Kiwiburn Organisation. Please refer to the Memorandum of Understanding for more information.
• A positive, motivated, inspired attitude and a cheeky twinkle in your eye!

What would be helpful to bring?

• Previous experience coordinating, leading or supporting a team of people with different workloads and priorities. Bonus points if they are volunteers!
• Prior volunteering for Kiwiburn, onsite or year-round.
• Familiarity with Kiwiburn's organisational structure and event environment.
• Experience in event operations, volunteer coordination, practical site work, environmental systems, documentation, training or other areas relevant to the Co-Lead focus you are interested in.
• Experience creating clear processes, documentation or training material.
• Interest in improving systems rather than simply repeating how things have previously been done.
• Desire to serve the burner community.

On site capability

Co-Leads are expected to develop a broad working understanding of Sanitation operations and undertake relevant training so they can support the wider team, follow established procedures and provide continuity across focus areas where appropriate.

Some Sanitation responsibilities require specialist technical or practical knowledge. Co-Leads are not expected to undertake work outside their competence simply to provide cover. Where specialist expertise is required, the appropriate Co-Lead or another suitably experienced Kiwiburn team should be consulted.

Individual physical ability should not prevent someone from contributing effectively as a Co-Lead. Tasks may be shared or allocated according to skills, accessibility requirements, training and capacity, provided the Co-Lead team collectively maintains appropriate operational coverage.

Who else will I be working with?

• Infrastructure Facilitator
• Other Sanitation Co-Leads
• Infrastructure teams including Town Planning, Plumbing and MPW
• Crew Support, Volunteer and other teams whose work overlaps with Sanitation
• Sanitation Shift Leads and event volunteers
• Site Office and relevant onsite operations teams
• Site Safety / Health & Safety teams where required
• External contractors and suppliers as required

The relevant Co-Lead may communicate directly with another team or department regarding their area of work; communication does not need to be routed through a single Sanitation representative.

Crew handling rules

• Wear nitrile or heavy rubber gloves, long sleeves, and closed shoes or gumboots. Wear eye protection when tipping buckets.
• Two people per full bucket, or use a sack trolley. A full 50 L bucket can weigh 40+ kg, which is why the planner fills to ~65%.
• Use a dedicated "dirty" wheelbarrow, shovel and fork, painted a different colour, and never use them for food areas.
• Wash hands with soap after every handling session and before eating or smoking.
• Keep vaccinations current: tetanus, and consider Hepatitis A for regular handlers.
• Keep a spill kit: sawdust, a shovel, bags, gloves and diluted bleach for hard surfaces only (never into the buckets or beds).
• Anyone with diarrhoea or vomiting should stay off handling duty. Report gastro outbreaks on site to the festival medic and the public health unit.

Steel buckets

• Galvanised steel corrodes from urine salts and acidic compost. The zinc ends up in the compost and the buckets rust through within a few seasons. Prefer stainless (food-grade 304), or epoxy-paint the inside of galvanised buckets.
• Put a 3–5 cm layer of sawdust in the bottom of every empty bucket. It stops sticking and soaks up liquid.
• Use tight lids for transport. Never stack full buckets more than 2 high.
• Wash after emptying at the bucket wash station (mouth-down over the spinning nozzle, lid shut), then leave them upside down in the sun to dry.
• Number every bucket and log its fill date, so the holding bay can be loaded in order.